In the know: Pre-Fall 2010 Valentino, Maison Martin Margiela and more!

Look 1: Valentino‘s Pre-Fall 2010 collection. Quite impressive. Definitely a different perspective from the traditional ballroom gowns it used to be. The bows and ruffles is being done quite a bit this season. But while that’s great for a line trying to go with the flow, it’s taking away from what made this iconic brand what it is in the first place.

Look 2: Maison Martin Margiela’s spring/summer 2010 collection. Breath taking. As always, MMM’s spring/summer 2010 collection is always innovative. A definite tone down from it’s 2009 glitter, but the cascading embellishment and use of fabrics and unconventional elements puts the line at the top of the ranks.

Look 3: Ann Demeulemeester‘s spring/summer 2010. Goth-punk influenced. A hot trend for 2010, but is it being over done? Considering I’m a major fan of Rad Hourani and Gareth Pugh, I’m quite happy that fashion’s embracing a darker tone.

Get My Look: Tomboy for Life!

Balmain‘s Cotton-canvas studded military blazer. 6,225 (USD). Available at Net-A-Porter.

Alexander McQueen‘s Lace embellished bustier top. 1,995 (USD). Available at Net-A-Porter.

Current/Elliot‘s Cropped legging jeans. 250 (Euros). Available at Colette.

Givenchy‘s Mock Croc Sandals. On sale for 355 (GBP). Available at Browns.

Balenciaga‘s Lune Bag. 770 (GBP). Available from Browns.

Lara Bohinc‘s Morgana choker. 785 (GBP). Available at Browns.

Lara Bohinc‘s Crusade bracelet. 285 (GBP). Available at Browns.

Musing: Ciara for Givenchy

There’s a certain demographic that’s been giving Ciara’s fashion fix a lot of flack lately. Perhaps because she’s graduated from the princess of crunk she used to be. Her model-esque beauty is certainly not her fault; neither is that killer body. She’s the quintessential designer’s muse: sultry, elongated and ridiculously elegant.

There’s been a certain trend I’ve been eyeing; glitter harem pants, and Ciara rocked this trend from Givenchy’s Fall 2009 couture collection.

If there’s any correct way to wear such a glamorous trend, then learn from fashion’s prince – Riccardo Tisci.

The combination is – in my mind – a match made in heaven.

In the Know: Christian V Siriano for Payless?

If you’ve been going gaga over Alexander McQueen’s hoofs, then you’ll probably love the next best thing: Christian Siriano’s Payless collection. And why not? Every girl needs a taste in luxury sometimes.

The curvy, sexy shoe comes in three colourways available for $79.99 (USD). My preference would be the aqua-coloured pump. However, as much as I’m down with fast fashion, I do have a qualm.

 I love shoes (as does every woman, right?). But do I love Payless? Sure I did – back in the day. But think about the quality reality of Payless: low-grade leather which leads to smelly feet, and poor construction which means if you’re lucky you’ll get a good three months out of it. Honestly, I don’t believe in spending more than $30.00 on a Payless shoe – limited edition or not – and I certainly think that if it’s not inked with a specialty shoe store, even frickin’ H&M (which is not a shoe store but is the hotness for fast-fashion), then it’s not something to swoon over.

I could be wrong. I’ve never invested in a Christian Siriano before nor have I heard of him prior to Nitrolicious, so,  this may be worth while. And I’m sure girls will lining outside a Payless based off the strength of visual aesthetic alone, anyway.

Musing: Henrik Vibskov ss 2010 womenswear

When Henrik Vibskov’s Maja Brix works her magic for the womenswear division, I’ve got to say – I’m practically drooling. It’s a shame because I don’t feel it’s getting the accolades it truly deserves. I’ve looked far and wide for the womenswear spring/summer 2010 lookbook but man, thanks to the Berlin-based Agentur V, I was able to peep some greatness from one of the coolest brands I’ve come across so far.  

This season doesn’t stray too far from the usual loose draping and colour contour concepts– something Henrik’s known for. And while I’m not really a fan of shoulder pads or harem pants, when Maja does it, it’s got an authentic vibe that makes it fun. I mean, the impression I get is they’re having fun with it anyway, which is what makes the brand a fav to begin with.

The problem with stagnancy though, is if the designs are consistent, it gets boring. Or, if they’re trying too hard to “grow” they kinda end up  taking from other designers and loosing distinction. I find Eastern European designers more interesting – a lot harder to find mind you – but not as superficial as their western counterparts. And I hope that as Henrik’s womenswear division blossoms, it becomes a leader to a younger generation of fashion mavens. In other words, building a distinction between itself and an H&M  rip off.

 

One to Watch: Alexandra Groover

UK-based Alexandra Groover’s spring/summer 2010 collection reminds me of those indie east-side fashion boutiques. You know, at first glance, the pieces are a bit intimidating, but when pulled off the hanger, they’re fresh, and brutally original.

It’s always nice to break away from the norm with these for-the-people collections, but their authenticity and made to order strategy mean they’re not for-the-people prices.

The California native got her papers from Central St. Martins and Rhode Island School of Design before working under Alexander McQueen and the infamous Zandra Rhodes. Her line, seperated in two – grey and black labels– and is available to order via her online boutique and farfetch.com. Her s/s 2010 collection also made its début at London Fashion Week and she’s been noted as one to watch by Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

Ms. Groover’s got some great representation (Blow handles her pr), but it looks like a lot of the clout she has obtained due to her own hard work. Her line suits UK’s ambiance and to call her line architectural is a bit passé; it’s gothic, new-age yet mysteriously sexy. Ms. Groover’s all-black concept of ruffled shoulders and tapered pants compliment the tastes of fashionista who can gloss it up with neatly coiffed hair and lips kissed in M-A-C’s “Girl About Town” fuchsia shade.

Musing: Michael Angel

When I look at Australian-born, New York-based fashion designer Michael Angel’s collection, I can’t help but see the uncanny similarities between him and Mary Katrantzou. Obviously not every living detail, but the overall concept seems to derive from the core of  similar mindsets.
Michael Angel’s power – when not playing with trompe l’oeil – is in how he contrasts fiery digital print with monochrome, minimalist designs. It’s hard out there right now, no doubt. But with a coming soon stockist (according to his website), yet constant mentions in all the last fashion magazines, when can I expect to walk into a fashion store and see some stock?

We all know that digital print is having an explosive moment in the fashion world, but can it be over played? One has to wonder. While Ms. Katrantzou’s the ‘it princess’, Angel’s been chugging along; he’s got a stacked press section on his site, and he’s even launched an e-online shop. I still don’t – for some reason – feel that he’s really got the true recognition he deserves. But I digress.
Lets see what’ll happen.

One to Watch: Stéphane Rolland

The fashion world has a new star: former Balenciaga Creative Director Stéphane Rolland’s been on the radar for some time now. But it’s his recent soire gowns that adorned Cheryl Cole’s petite frame that has fashion lovers salvating.   

The man of culture was born in France, lived in Argentina and the West Indies, and has been around for a minute. After his stint at Balenciaga, he launched his eponymous Prêt-à–Porter in 2004 then did some costume design before moving on to Haute Couture at the age of 30. Now, the label has become a full-fledged House of Stéphane Rolland. And we’ll have the chance to see his spring/summer 2010 collection at Paris Haute Couture this week.

Haute Couture is, without question, a gift to fashion. The metriculous attention to detail and construction brings about the faily tales that make young hopefuls love fashion so much. But we sure hope he’s made the right decidion during such troubling times.

If I were a boy…

I’d be 20-year-old male model Sean O’Pry of VNY Model Management. I was flipping through an issue of i-D and POW! His editorial spread hit me like a boxing glove. His magnetic blue eyes and defined jaw line are the epitome of aesthetic perfection. While I wouldn’t call it a sin to look this good, his sinful sexiness has women and men transfixed.

As the highest paid male model in the business now, he’s donned campaigns for Calvin Klein ad Giorgio Armani. He’s opened catwalks in Milan and Paris, and has been in about just about every magazine that has room for human male mannequins. One can’t imagine what the teeny boppers are going through when they see him now.

Kind of reminds me of when I had a teenage crush on then model Antonio Sabato Jr. I used to print off images from the Internet and post them on my wall, heck, I even joined a fan club (until it started to become spam, I had no interest in every minute detail of his life as I thought). But it was such a joy to drool over a medium-well tenderloin (pun-intended) stake. Then he became B -movie actor.

Maybe O’Pry will be a B+ movie actor if he’s smart about it. You know, playing the sub-romantic lead along older list actresses in Nancy Meyers romantic-comedies. Just do me a favour honey, don’t try to become the next Steven Seagal, or even the next Bruce Willis, who was damn good at pumping action-injected films. Most of the time, when you’re not what those guys consider to be ‘real actors’ it all goes to shit from there.

Trend Report: Protruding Hips

If there’s any trend worth paying attention to for 2010, it’s the rise of protruding hips. Ideal for lanky, androgynous types, a mini-dress with accentuated hips figments an hour-glass shape, drawing attention to pelvic thrusts guaranteed to reel men in like fish bait. And as you know, wide hips represent child-bearing abilities. Why else would Shakira profess that the ‘Hips Don’t Lie’?

Central Saint Martins graduate Georgia Hardinge diligently embellishes the hips for her spring/summer 2010 collection. For this I’m sure she’ll be well loved by girls  dying to add some plump to the ‘stickness.’  But beware: if you’re already hippie, a la Beyoncé, then you might want steer clear of this look; you’ll end up looking like a sci-fi Gwar groupie – not cute.