Archive for the ‘dress’ Category

Re-cap: Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011

In couture, designer, dress, Fashion on January 27, 2011 at 4:56 pm

While I love the intricate constructions of Haute Couture, this part of the collections is not my favourite. It sounds strange. But I find haute couture very traditional, older, and geared towards those getting married. Mind you, I love looking at some of the designs, but if I am seeking creative juices I much rather the colour and enthusiasm of ready-to-wear.

Alexander Vauthier gave us a refreshing take on haute couture. If I were to indulge in this culture, Vauthier would be the direction I would go.

Though, admittedly, he hasn’t strayed too far from his last collection, he resonates with a younger generation. I do respect designers who play with drapes, and this is territory Vauthier is learning to master. Other than that, we shall certainly wait and see.

I heart Karl Lagerfeld. And though he, at times, is so much more fun than Chanel, those clothes are a strong point of reference. His version of couture varies: at times, it’s detailed with lavish floor-length dresses and shimmering beads, then there’s the tweed jackets and matching skirts. Either way, it is, for the most part, traditional.

While it’s not something you’re going to expect a fun time with, Mr. Lagerfeld is loyal – something to be respected.

I love Jean-Paul Gaulthier. He’s a fun, engaging man. However, his collections, as of late, have not, in my opinion, represented anything innovative. I’ve seen this collection before. so, because I love this man, and because I still honour him as a leader in high-fashion, I expected more.

It’s possible that he’s overworked. He was creative director for two demanding fashion houses (Hermès and his namesake), and it’s possible that he’s taking the time to get back in his element. he did his best to bring theatricality with the bride singing and dancing. But, I don’t want to semantics – I want to see his talent.

If there is fun in Haute Couture, it is John Galliano for Christian Dior. Mind you, with the exception of a traditional runway, the collection itself was quite similar to last seasons. I do appreciate the colour and tulle embellished throughout the collection.

Mr. Galliano draws magical reference to time periods in his collections, and the `50s style theme worked well.

Mr. Giorgio Armani is by far, one of the best dress makers in fashion. It is breath-taking; dreamy fabrics, detailing, use of colour: priceless. The art-deco theme suited, the make-up, immaculate. The clothes one of the few I would wear.

Breathtaking, from beginning to the final look.

One-to-watch: Hakaan

In designer, dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know on January 25, 2011 at 6:34 pm

“I feel more experienced and knowledgeable than the new generation.”

Little is known about Turkish-born, London-based fashion designer Hakaan Yildirim. I’d came upon him while reading an issue of i-d, i believe i still have the issue. in true i-d style, the raw, gritty layout was hypersexual, and absolutely captivating. I learned that his runway show was filled with top models including Natalia Vodianova, Lara Stone and Mariacarla Boscono. And Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell sat front and centre with Anna Wintour. Hakaan, was, and still is, the hot designer of the moment.

His debut collection (according to international fashion capital) won him the French-financed Andam Prize valued at $270,000, and judged by French Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld, Andam director Nathalie Dufour, Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz, Jefferson Hack of Dazed & Confused, Virginie Mouzat, critic of Le Figaro, Delphine Arnault of LVMH, Valerie Hermann of the Gucci Group and Pierre Berge, former partner of Yves Saint Laurent – isn’t that a mouthful!

This is, by far, quite a development from his 2009 collection:

the things you can do with money, it’s true. That and of course, an immense amount of passion and talent.

Hakaan has gotten better with time. His Spring/Summer 2011 collection was draped and construction with the finest silks. With accolades on the rise, he’s becoming a strong force to be reckoned with.

If I could only own a piece of Hakaan’s lusturous dresses. Ah, but that is part of what dreams may come.

But if you can, please indulge, a dress like this goes a long way.

Good look: The Red Dress

In dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Trend on December 24, 2010 at 7:48 pm

The little black dress has been played into oblivion. The red dress has become something of an icon, but it’s still an underrated one. Let’s bring it back. Go ahead and slip one on for Christmas. Sure it’s a little ‘festive’, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

Antonio Berardi concocted this mouth-watering regal yet Gothic velvet dress with good intentions. I’ve never seen anyone – at least here in Toronto – pull off anything like it. And trust that they’ve tried to do a lot of things. But it’s a must, if you can get your hands on it.

Black lace. I say, red. This lace dress by Dolce & Gabbana is simple but effective. If you want to stand out amidst the black lace crowd, this is the way to go.

Alber Elbaz is the king of ‘the dress’. He’s the core of French fashion house Lanvin. Admittedly, this dress is very Cynthia Nixon. And I mean the actress. Not her character Miranda Hobbes from Sex in the City. Red is exceptionally flattering on a red-head it’s true. But didn’t you know that it’s just as stunning on virtually every skin tone?

If you’ve got the shoulders, I’d suggest you try this fold dress by DSquared2. The colour has punch. The cut is immaculate. It’s simple yet effective.

Ah, now this is my thing. As I’ve stated before, short and tight is my thing. Over the years, I’ve come think of Valentino as red and flowy, but this body-con like number takes the band to a completely different. It’s the sexiest of the lot. But then again, I am about my sex, aren’t I.

If your preference is for understatement, this Vivienne Westwood Jersey Dress could be right for you. Quite a coincidence coming from the mother of punk. But because it’s so minimal, it’s best to go with extreme accessories.

Steal: Evening dresses

In affordable, dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Shopping, steal, Trend, Trend Report, Wish List on December 7, 2010 at 7:10 pm

I may be young, but when it comes to clothes, I’m not delusional. Most of the time. As much as I can imagine myself in an over-the-top designer dress, I know how to find my favorite brands at reasonable prices too. And still set the trend, if I must add.

The thing about designer, is that minimalism isn’t an issue. You could be bare feet with a plastic bag, and you’ll still look dope. Reason being is because designer means quality – it’s not rocket science. So while we’d love to spend $1,000+ on that dazzling couture piece, we can still look on point in less than a fraction of the price. On top of that, adorned in clothes by some of the hottest designers in the fashion bible hot list.

OK, OK, wait a minute, here. A 100% silk dress by Swedish it-brand ACNE for under $250? And where can I get that? Coggles you say? Is that not a steal? And they have my size? If you – or me for that matter – don’t get on this, well have to resort to rags. This doesn’t happen very often… if ever.

Alexander Wang, in my opinion, is the Alfred Sung of his generation. This 26-year-old fashion prodigy has received accolades from Vogue, and is top-tier to celebrities around the world. That said, to own anything by Mr. Wang is a treat. And if it’s under $200, say no more. Even if it is his secondary line.

What more do you need in a TWENTY8TWELVE dress? It’s super-mini, and it’s pink. Nicki Minaj, eat your socks. And it’s roughly under $250 (CDN).

One thing you’ll have to realize: when it comes to cost-effective designer dresses, there’s less fabric to work with. But it’s okay, it’s worth it. You’ve got the body, the look and the attitude, and a little minus degree whether won’t kill you, right? Who wouldn’t wear this grey scale body-con dress by Jonathan Saunders. I thought grey was the new black. And apparently it’s 199.50 (USD), not even $200. Go for it.
Sportmax, a subsidiary of the MaxMara empire is constant in Vogue‘s pages. Does that mean anything, well yes, it does. it’s the originator in sport-motif chic. Minimal construction, and fine detail. And to top if off, for about $250 USD, you’re getting a 2-for-1 deal, a dress and bolero in a navy hue. OK. I meant three.

LFW 2010: Meadham Kirchhoff

In Collection, designer, dress, London, RTW, UK on March 1, 2010 at 2:25 am

I’ve been inexcusably absent from my blog. I can’t pinpoint the exact reason, not like I’ve been on vacation or anything. Could be a bout of searching… for inspiration. But I knew I had to get back on this so here I am.

I was in Toronto during London’s inspiring fashion week mash-up, but unless it pertained to my favorites, quite frankly, it didn’t really matter. But there was something missing this year, I’m not sure what designers are going through, but the animation they wove into their previous collections are missing.

I was shocked with the design-duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. It’s not that the collection was bad, but it reminded me of Matthew Williamson‘s worldly concepts. It’s not a bad thing, not at all. They’ve still got the gothic edge, but this time it’s incorporated with florals and I just don’t feel this was their best. Then again, maybe that’s okay because we all have bad days.

The thing with this collection is it’s a fall back. When Erdem, and Matthew Williamson does florals and feminine drapes there’s an undeniable fierceness to it. And it’s disappointing because I know Meadham Kirchoff can do so much better.

I hope my guys bring it back next time around, though. You know what I mean.

Musing: Michael Angel

In designer, dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW on January 26, 2010 at 5:09 pm

When I look at Australian-born, New York-based fashion designer Michael Angel’s collection, I can’t help but see the uncanny similarities between him and Mary Katrantzou. Obviously not every living detail, but the overall concept seems to derive from the core of  similar mindsets.
Michael Angel’s power – when not playing with trompe l’oeil – is in how he contrasts fiery digital print with monochrome, minimalist designs. It’s hard out there right now, no doubt. But with a coming soon stockist (according to his website), yet constant mentions in all the last fashion magazines, when can I expect to walk into a fashion store and see some stock?

We all know that digital print is having an explosive moment in the fashion world, but can it be over played? One has to wonder. While Ms. Katrantzou’s the ‘it princess’, Angel’s been chugging along; he’s got a stacked press section on his site, and he’s even launched an e-online shop. I still don’t – for some reason – feel that he’s really got the true recognition he deserves. But I digress.
Lets see what’ll happen.

One to Watch: Roberta Furlanetto

In Collection, designer, dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, Italy, One to Watch, RTW, Trend on January 14, 2010 at 4:51 pm

Just imagine: you’re an Italian-based textile designer with a love for the school of baroque art. So much so, you create a fashion label that plays on the romanticism of the era, and its influence runs rampant throughout your handmade collection. While I’m not sure that this was Roberta Furlanetto’s motif, it would add character to the storyboard I’m sure.

What’s quite interesting, I must say, is who Furlanetto worked with before launching her eponymous prêt-a-porter collection in 2007. She has handmade textiles for body-con king Azzedine Alaïa, collaborated with Christian Lacroix , Nina Ricci and Ungaro. Her work with the house of Dior seems to be  most prevalent, particularly with her shoe collection.

Furlanetto’s spring/summer 2010 lookbook swims in organza and seashell cuts  drenched in a coral, vermillion red and silver colour palette.

The only thing I wish was that she put her own spin on that Thakoon-Michelle Obama inspired Sea Anemone dress; Imuch prefer the black sculpture dress. It’s the same concept, just shorter, and presents a fresher outlook on a concept that was done into oblivion. Otherwise I can’t complain, only in heaven could I be a muse for such a fine clothier.

Rising Star: Prabal Gurung

In Collection, designer, dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, One to Watch, Rising Stars, RTW, style on January 8, 2010 at 5:10 pm

Nicole Phelps from said NYC-based fashion designer Prabal Gurung drapes a mean dress. I prefer to think Prabal Gurung’s mean, period. Joseph Altuzarra and Alexander Wang have been the talk of the town, but this mini fashion powerhouse in the making will throw the others in the trash bin – in friendly competition, of course. Thank god for his formal training as Creative Director for Bill Blass (before it tanked). If it wasn’t for that, maybe he wouldn’t have the momentum to go as far back in fashion as he has.

Gurung’s clearly the next Yves Saint Laurent. And he’s brought back the classic Balenciaga —even Valentino— with fierceness. It’s hard not to look at his collection without reminiscing over those big, thick phaidon fashion history books. The days classic designers paraded bows, red carpet ball gowns with intricate knots and bare shoulders. Sure he throws in the occasional cocktail Gossip Girl dress, the modern-day debutantes gotta shop too. But I think calling his collection “Clothes for a thinking-man’s sex symbol” a bit too deep.  How about his confections simply being clothing for a sex-symbol; the glamazons of old Hollywood are rolling in their graves right about now. Even when he does a pantsuit, there’s a nonchalance about his craftsmanship. As though he’s just effortlessly bang on.

Looking at Gurung’s collection makes me feel safe; there is a well of hope amid the chaos.

One to Watch: Odyn Vovk

In Collection, designer, dress, Fashion, Good Look, Icon, Men, RTW, Trend on January 8, 2010 at 2:37 am

The fashion world has run amuck. It seems a lot of new designers believe — with all the will their hearts can  muster — that throwing contorted bulks on a model sporting a suicidal expression standing against a bare backdrop is good fashion. No, it’s not, and people generally can see right through it. The emo thing was over before it began, and right about now that concept is the equivalent to a sedative- I’m numb. But you know, there’s something convincing when eastern European designers do it. Maybe it’s their deep-rooted history, but when I see the drama concocted into their designs to me, it’s authentic. Which leads me to Ukraine-born menswear designer Odyn Vovk.

I love the creepiness of his slit-sharp collections. This new designer’s concept is so masculine I can smell the testosterone through the computer. Yet, when he makes those very few womenswear staples, there’s nothing really androgynous about them. They are glamorous and form-fitting with cascading drapes. There’s no question that I would wear his women’s pieces.  And when you take the clothes off the morbid models, the men’s pieces are totally hot. Maybe too hot for the average guy who still thinks the school boy cardigan look is the must do for the season.

Paper Magazine called the collection Post-nuclear-war chic. I’m not sure if this was self-imposed or not, but I don’t see anything nuclear about it. Unless Mad Max is post-nuclear war? But even then, Mad Max was your quintessential GQ prototype, you know. Most girls love a man with edge.

I’m excited to see Odyn Vovk’s development.

In The Know: Barbie x Comme des Garçons

In dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, News, Trend on December 9, 2009 at 8:23 pm

Comme des Garçons has teamed with Barbie for a very limited-edition release called “Jingle Flowers.”  The ultimate Christmas gift and part of GDC’s platinum collection, some lucky young girls will own Barbie at her best; modeled in a silk-lined, asymmetrical organza dress adorned in multicoloured roses and wearing elegant black slingbacks. The doll retails for 225 GBP and will be available at all Comme des Garçons stores (including CDG’s Dover Street Market).

As we all know, floral print has been astronomical on the runway and a hit with fashionistas across the globe. Unfortunately, GDC hasn’t formed  the concept into a real woman collection, however, according to NY Post, the print will be available on wallets, T-shirts, perfume bottles and Artek Chairs.