Safra

Posts Tagged ‘Ann Demeulemeester’

Wet (fashion) dreams

In Fashion on May 16, 2011 at 5:59 pm

My official list of favourite designers. You are given permission to cut off my tongue if I ever say otherwise:

c.neeon
via sleek

Henrik Vibskov
via Henrik Vibskov’s blog

Dries Van Noten
via the fashionalists

Raf Simons
via fashionising

Jil Sander
via Marouge Style

Meadham Kirchoff
via Crystal Migraine

Ann Demeulemeester
via trendland

Christopher Kane
via the must + it

Gareth Pugh
via Newslicious

Rick Owens
via Glamour Goddess

Céline
via Kenya’s Style

Haider Ackermann
via trend forum

Kris Van Assche
via Homme Times

and, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy
via

Fashion Windows

Canadian mentions:

Denis Gagnon

via Magnifique

Greta Constantine

via Auntie Fashion

John Hillifer via Gian Lucianglesi

Re-Cap: Men’s Fashion Week

In Collection, designer, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, Men on January 24, 2011 at 5:47 pm

There were too many collections to keep track. And though I loved them all, I had to narrow it down to the ones that stood out to me. And even if they didn’t, there was something strong in their message. Something worth noting.

Versace menswear – Fall/Winter 2011-2012

The new trend: Blue

Blue is back, but with a lot more panache than the denim that inundated fashion last year. Blue – this year – is royal; soothing, much like the exquisite beaches in Aruba. Donatella Versace did a beautiful rendition of blue in swathed sweaters and fine-tailored suits, while Dries Van Noten, though not a standout in the collections, did a beautiful number on those double-breasted wool-blend coats. But Acne was, by far, the best collection in this department. Jonny Johansson, creative director behind the brand, complemented the hue with the minimalism trend giving it a very contemporary appeal.

Paul Smith menswear – Fall/Winter 2011-2012

The new trend: Orange

Last year it was burnt sienna, but this year, it’s a full-out ode to the hue representing enthusiasm and creativity. Ann Demeulemeester, mostly known for her dark design concepts, threw in punches of orange as show here, while Kenzo enriched the colour with a bit of berry. Paul Smith, otherwise known for his whimsy multi-coloured stripes, added a bit of edge to his collection, but threw in orange for good measure. It definitely worked.

Givenchy menswear – Fall/Winter 2011-2012

The new trend: Graphic print

Alright, this is not particularly a new trend. But, it is one that designers want you to understand. Yohji Yamamoto did what appears to be an ode to the late Alexander McQueen, you know, the gorgeous art of the medieval era, Sir McQueen was so good at – but, in true Yamamoto fashion – a bit of whimsical flair lightening things up. It is fashion at its peak, but still wearable for those into making statements through their clothes. I have said, for a long time, that I am in love with Riccardo Tisci. This has not changed, and neither has my love for his design hand at Givenchy. With its incorporation of pitbulls, Jesus and chains, this collection was very west-coast, very “hood,” and an interesting cross-over into more accessible fashion. As for Jean-Paul Gaultier, the man who gets his inspiration from the street, there was nothing new. But that’s okay, Mr. Gaultier played on his strengths: prints, sexuality and fantasy. But his way with prints, in this case, is indisputable.

Burberry Prorsum menswear – Fall/Winter 2011 2012

The new trend: gray, hats, bags

The thing about this, is that there’s too many to just single out one. When I look at the hats – especially in the Dior Homme collection – it’s an easy ode to Indiana Jones. But, when I look at them, I think of the late, absolutely great Michael Jackson. He lives on through fashion. And the way the hats tilt (as seen in Lanvin), concealing the eyes just so, it is an obvious reference. As for gray, the colour representing sorrow, security and maturity, rather than dwell on the bad, let us think of it for its security. It’s dependability. And, better yet, as seen in Burberry Prorsum, its sleekness. “Manbags” – feared by men across the globe at first, are now bigger than ever. To the point of commonality. But unlike the men in skirts trend last year, this one is nothing to be ashamed of. And as the trend develops, it learning to take on a masculinity of its own.

Coat for him: gift guide for me

In Fashion on December 9, 2010 at 7:16 pm

On to part two of the gift guide saga. Sorry I’m so late on this, but I’m notorious for being a last-minute shopper, anyway. Coats. A good one can literally last a lifetime, while a fad endures for a month – tops. If you’re stylist – and there’s a difference – your closet is more likely than not to filled with classic pieces. But If you’re fashion-conscious, well, you’re on to the next as seasons change. The interesting thing about fashion though, is that if you truly have an eye for it, you can easily spot something timeless, as I hope I’ve done here. While some men will get these pieces, others with tunnel vision won’t.


This Raf Simons bomber jacket reminds me of the good ‘ole days. I was young. Happy. And I wanted a bomber jacket. Badly. The small zipper on the side, the orange lining, it’s completely grunge. Circa `92. With the ripped jeans and flannel shirts to match. If you were hip hop, you wore all black: toque, jeans, tee, kicks and a bomber off the top. It came in olive, or black. But at this stage in life, I think most men may find the darker hue more sleek.


Alright. My obsession with Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy is nothing new. But you have to admit: most things by this man are – tres chic – cliche intended. This trench coat has a strong British aesthetic to it, it’s got that post-punk rebel attitude. And it’s fairly reasonable (in price) for a high-fashion brand (685 Euros). What’s best about this coat though, is that it transcends age, most (mature) younger men can wear it, and it’ll easy work its way into the latter end of the age spectrum.


Let me tell you a little something about Savile Row: it doesn’t get half as much credit in west as it deserves. Did you know the late Alexander McQueen originally trained at the row? For a man to wear an Duffle coat acclaimed brand as this means he’s got taste. Unfortunately, you’ll have to educate a lot of men of a certain generation about it.


Capes are in. But on a guy, they tend to remind me of Batman. But in this case, this cape by Ann Demeulemeester gets a major pass. If your guy falls in love with this coat, consider yourself a champion of style.


This coat is my personal favourite. I had always been in love with Hudson’s Bay point blanket , so to see it be revived and re-modeled over the years brings about a sense of pride. Here’s a point I’ve been arguing for years though: why do designers in warmer climates make such wonderful winter coats? Here, we have a brand, Monitaly, based in California, whip up a Riders white stripe wool coat. And the brand’s designer Yuki Matsuda, has a thing for us Canadians; he’s also designed a collection for our beloved Canada Goose. Now, I should be clear: the Canadian brand does not come cheap (this coat is about 902 USD), but consider it a staple. Like an original Burberry, this is the type of item that gets better with age.

I Heart Ann Demeulemeester

In Fashion on May 21, 2010 at 11:06 pm

Famous for her association with the Antwerp six, fashion designer Ann Demeulemeester brings an intense yet sporty aesthetic to neo-Gothic fashion. It’s no wonder her popularity is on the rise as of late; Demeulemeester is the perfect alternative rebellion to Hervé Léger’s bondage dress because it’s the real thing. You don’t just wear Demeulemeester because you want to be sexy, you wear her because you are sexy.

In the know: Pre-Fall 2010 Valentino, Maison Martin Margiela and more!

In Collection, designer, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, I heart, Icon, In the Know, News, Rouse, style, Trend, Trend Report on January 29, 2010 at 7:59 pm

Look 1: Valentino‘s Pre-Fall 2010 collection. Quite impressive. Definitely a different perspective from the traditional ballroom gowns it used to be. The bows and ruffles is being done quite a bit this season. But while that’s great for a line trying to go with the flow, it’s taking away from what made this iconic brand what it is in the first place.

Look 2: Maison Martin Margiela’s spring/summer 2010 collection. Breath taking. As always, MMM’s spring/summer 2010 collection is always innovative. A definite tone down from it’s 2009 glitter, but the cascading embellishment and use of fabrics and unconventional elements puts the line at the top of the ranks.

Look 3: Ann Demeulemeester‘s spring/summer 2010. Goth-punk influenced. A hot trend for 2010, but is it being over done? Considering I’m a major fan of Rad Hourani and Gareth Pugh, I’m quite happy that fashion’s embracing a darker tone.

In The Know: The Hottest Kicks for 2009 RECAP

In art, Fashion, Good Look, Recap, Shoes, Shopping, sneakers on December 10, 2009 at 12:02 am

As I’ve grown older, my eye for good quality sneakers aka trainers, has become more refined. I admit, I’ve always had good taste in sneakers, but now I can easily spot a really good one when I see it. And believe me – it takes skill, particularly when concepts are slapped together – in the laziest or excessive ways- and then suddenly considered the must-have item of the season.

I don’t like my sneakers to be pretentious, well – maybe just a little. But pretentious meaning they’re equal parts fashion and art. Yes, I truly do believe in wearing art on your feet.

The Top Ten Hottest kicks for 2009/2010 (so far):

Bernhard Willhelm – 204 (Euros). Available at Far Fetch.

I do quite like these all-black leather high-tops. What’s particularly interesting is the piece of lace intertwined with the shoe laces that are strapped through the shoe.

Ann Demeulemeester – 541.44 (CAD). Available at Luisaviaroma.

Sneakers don’t get more euro than this. Beautifully punk black suede sneakers with triple buckle embellishments. If you’re a sneaker lover who’s got class – you wear these.

John Galliano – 475 (USD). Available at Style Drops.

With the patent leather and rivets, I can see these being very popular amongst the hip-hop community. Look at the buckle details, it’s riveting.

Rick Owens – 695 (GBP). Available at Browns Fashion.

Almost a boxing style shoe, what’s wonderful about this shoe is not just the black/white colourway, but the zipper along the side and elongated tongue.

Billionaire Boys Club – 276 (CAD). Available at Ssense.

High-top black canvas sneakers with white city print. How cool is that? I’ve never been one for the whole BBC/Ice Cream shenanigans, but I love the simplicity of this shoe. you may be looking at the shoe thinking “What’s so simple about it?” well, the minimalism with architectural element. This shoe is very art deco.

Paul Smith – 315 (USD). Available at Style Drops.

Leather multicoloured shoe with a heavy psychedelic reference. Enough said.

Raf Simmons – 301 (Euros). Available at Colette.

Neoprene sneakers – the cool irony. Too cool to wear scuba diving, though they don’t look like shoes you’d wear everyday.

Pierre Hardy – 350 (Euros). Available at Colette.

Drawing slight reference from the De Stijl movement, these remind me of works by the infamous Pieter Cornelis Mondrain. There were only 500 pairs available worldwide.

kris van assche – 491 (CAD). Available at Ssense.

These starch white Nappa lambskin sneakers remind me of an astronaut heading off to the moon. These babies sold out quickly, and we’re not sure if we’ll ever see them again.

Swarovski crystalized x Jeremy Scott sneakers – 2500 (Euros). Available at Colette.

Would someone really be that crazy to wear 5000+ dollar crystalized sneakers with wings? You betcha. Jeremy Scott made winged sneakers the rave for 2009 and this is a perfect way to end off the year. A true gem, Swarovski showed the world that they can be just as street as the rest of them. Kudos to Jeremy for constructing such a daring fashion statement.