Archive for April, 2010|Monthly archive page
TSE Fall 2008 – semi-amish/1950s length skirt
Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 – ditto
Todd Lynn Fall 2008 – fur
Altuzarra Fall 2010 – ditto
Emanuel Ungaro Fall 2008 – oversized grey knit
Michael Kors Fall 2010 – ditto
Yves Saint Laurent Fall 2008 – minimalist
Rad Hourani Fall 2010 – ditto
And you certainly get the drift. What I want to say is kudos to the designers who were told otherwise when they launched it. This season, they’re all over it. The early adapter took hold and moulded it while it was the understated. Everything and everyone else, came right after.
Kimberly Stewart – Fashion Conscious
Magazines are the go-to for what’s trendy, runways are the glitzy platform for a designer’s hard work (and money), and Celebrities – ultimately – are the guinea pigs for who wore it best. But as much as fashion is entertaining, we’re living in a time when the lines between fashion and style have run amok.
Before heading to a press meeting, I’d skimmed through an issue of i-D magazine and drew some inspiration from their lover’s issue. The models that caught my eye were a real-life Parisian couple (referred to as one of Paris’ most stylish) dawning sweatpants and layers of knits. I liked what they wore so much I decided to pile on the cardis. Considering it was windy outside, it was a good call. My nails were painted in Zoya’s Robyn, a creamy sea blue, with a braid drooped to the side and Burberry shades. Considering I’m already six-foot in four-inch heels, I must have looked a bit trendy, I suppose. After the meeting, I grabbed a stronbow (beer for girls) and sat on the patio of a trendy west-end hotelier. Lounging and drinking, as you can imagine, put something into perspective.
Lou Doillon – Stylish
When old Hollywood glamazons and socialites featured in the Vogues and Harper’s Bazaars it wasn’t who they wore, it was how it was worn. In Halston’s day, with his Halstonette’s and Yves Saint Laurent’s rise to iconic status, it became cool to wear designers and follow what was called – a trend. As told by the godfather of trending David Wolfe, “when [trends] began in the 1970s, Kenzo was ruling the world with his trend-heavy presentations in Paris that revolutionized the way fashion was communicated, merchandised and designed. And in those days it was very fast. It was very much like a costume and everybody but everybody bought into it.” What exactly does that mean? Well, basically, the whole idea of being trendy started in the `70s. Trending today is just as, if not, more ephemeral. But while the fashionista is a slave to trends, the stylish person can – and should – probably wear a paperpag with je ne sais quoi. So I’d like to understand why the fashion obsessed is the focus of so many style bloggers (and fashion magazine’s style pages), when they’re really anything but. Shouldn’t people be looking to the fashion world for trends and glorifying people who naturally exude style?
Fashion models – the top ones – and musicians, for the most part, are stylish. Kudos to style photogs that notice. If someone’s a walking fashion magazine, even if they do work at one and the chassé doesn’t look natural, it probably isn’t.
Am I fashion conscious? To a degree, but possibly slimmer than I thought. Back to the patio lounging, my eyes stumbled on a girl with a faux-fur vest – in spring – and the latest hidden heel platforms. This person, who is a Toronto fashion authority, though considered stylish, striked me as painfully fashion obsessed at that moment. I shook my head and went back to my paper. No, I’m not a fashionista at all.
Jean-Pierre Braganza is not a newbie. He’s been designing since 2002, but I’m hoping to see a burst of mainstream recognition going foward. This British-Canadian Central Saint Martins graduate worked as a designer for Roland Mouret before being selected by Karl Lagerfeld for the Protégé Project, then debuted his eponymous collection in 2004. He creates both men’s and womenswear, and there’s a slew of celebrity fans including Kings of Leon, Estelle and Cheryl Cole.
Jean-Pierre shines when he nourishes his talent for psychadelic prints. I do however, feel he should leave the modernism to Jil Sander and concentrate on his gift for knits and draping. Maybe he’s still trying to find his comfort zone. But if he cultivates what he’s best at, he’s bound to flourish.
Fashion Editors are calling for a nouveau punk revolution. They’re saying women are rebelling. Maybe it’s a strike against the pretty gowns some designers sent down the runway. They’d rather embrace pairing tulle with spikes than look like societe’s ideal of the wholesome girl.
I see nothing wrong with Ms. Wholesome. I’ll freely admit she’s what I strive for. She’s classy and smart. But I’ve taken a keen interest to goth girl because she’s très chic. Goth is elegant, has depth and is androgynous. The goth girl is the smart person’s wholesome girl. While Goth continues to evolve, becoming more hipsterish and emotional when young, it’s consistent. Goth can be beautified, or kept monochromatic, it doesn’t matter, the point is it’s always there. Gareth Pugh has brought a much-needed glamour to goth while Joseph Altuzarra made it more approachable. Rick Owens is more of a modernist, but there’s a hint of goth empowerment in his collections, always.
So, I’m rebelling against punk. I’d rather be timeless than hold on to something I’ll part ways with once I’ve noticed a grey hair or two. At least this way, I can exchange leather with silk, and replace my sheer black t-shirts with a Victorian style blouse. It will be a transition rather than a metamorphosis, growing more fruitful with age.
It’s true: women love their hands more when the weather is warmer. There’s no point in trying to understand it, when the wind feels like daggers piercing through our skin, our hands hibernate in our pockets. Then when the weatherman waves his (or her) green flag, Beauty Editors go nail gonzo and we race to our beloved nail bars for a continuum of manicures until the trees are naked and it’s back to the winter bin once again.
I noticed this when in a matter of weeks, I befriended two different nail ladies and accrued a small collection of Zoya polish. I also took an interest (one again) in nail design, eagerly booking my appointment for a minx set. Forget about it. I bare no interest in french tips or nude hues, I want bright, boisterous colours and adventurous designs.
Until moving to England I played it safe, throwing in the occasional hot pink for variety. Boredom and London’s animated culture persuaded me to give nail design a try. It complements my rather grayscale (preferably black) outfits, and is an extension of my personality because I’m quite unpredictable, you know.
I’ll admit something: there are an army of asian women with brilliant nails regardless of weather change. I adored their nails, but my bland job didn’t allow for anything but conformity. Admittedly, pretty nails is a culture for the vainer woman.
Professional nails are quite expensive (at least $35 for the prettiest nails), but I think I’ll stack up on that Zoya nail polish ($10 a pop). That way, I can keep my nails pretty during colder months.
Pictured here is a look from Acne’s Fall/Winter 2010-11 collection. The whole outfit is s o raw the model could walk right off the runway to the grocery store or where ever her heart desires. That’s what I call immacute styling. But the coat! It’s one of the most daunting outerwear pieces I’ve ever seen. How could one wear such a thing? Well, you’ve got to think recklessly, as though you couldn’t care less about combing your hair or even brushing your teeth. Better yet – Just throw the soap in the garbage will you!
This type of coat adds much needed glamour to your drab. That and your most viva glam sunglasses complemented with cowboy boots … or chucks. Actually, leather trimming on the coat adds sexy (as shown) while a cotton cut adds cool. But a coat like this is hard to come by; this devil-may-care style is best when done by top designers. Below are two versions made by Alexander Wang. If you can find them vintage – best of luck if you do – cherish it. It’s a classic look that’s been recycled throughout the `80s until now.
What a powerful colour. For years, red has been regarded as the foundation of evil. But what’s overlooked is that red is our circulation. To wear red means life. It represents fearlessness and ambition. It is our confidence and reassurance.
Diana Vreeland, one of the most trailblazing editors of all time, spent hours roughing her cheeks, lips, nails – her whole house! She poured it on the streets and it was the trademark of her life. I’ve never come across a more prolific person who personified red as she did.
Designers such as Rodarte, Givenchy, and Betsey Johnson tantalize with splashes of red on the runway, but few used it completely. I understand – red is a brave move. But it’s one of the most timeless and feminine colours on the rainbow palette. It’s not as overt as pink, but not as masculine as blue. It’s extremely flattering on rich skin tones and it’s just the right kind of commander.
You can be a flirtatious lolita, or a sultry vixen. But why be one when there’s room for both? Since blossoming into an unofficial Givenchy princess, I’ve become a something of – a black maven. Forget colour, I know what’s best. Many people consider black to be safe, but it’s not. It’s gothic, absorbs heat, and it’s distant. Most of all, you have to find ways to make it interesting; a hard feat when your eyes are as black as a bat’s cave.
When wearing black, the shoes have to match. And I realize material is extremely important. Suede can be risky – it’s afraid of water and impossible to clean properly. Leather is good, but it can feel as heavy as it looks. I do however, like the idea of black lace shoes. Better yet, black lace with patent trimming. Or patent wedges – pay attention to those. That’s the ringer for me – patent. Oh yes, I love the idea of patent shoes matched with all black ready-to-wear attire.
So it’s a deal. When wearing black, keep it breezy. Free flowing wraps (oversized is best), leggings (no spandex – no shine), very light-weight denim, and loose fitting t-shirts. Dresses are good, especially if short. Long is good too. Actually, I’m thinking jersey. Jersey fabric is key. Try to find a catsuit if you can, throw a wrap over it, and add some black patent shoes. There you go, you’ve got it. I’ll even give you a head start if you need it.
Dr. Martens patent boots.
Kurt Geiger’s Carvela Sleaze Patent Lace-up Ankel Boot available at ASOS
Givenchy lace sandal with patent leather trim
Fendi Patent Logo boot
Report Signature ankle boot
Mini Market patent leather wedges