Archive for the ‘RTW’ Category

LFW Fall 2011: Basso & Brooke

In British, Fashion, Fashion Heat, RTW, Trend, Trend Report on February 22, 2011 at 5:36 pm


Must take note: Two years ago, I was convinced that Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke, the British design-duo behind Basso & Brooke would be fashion superstars. They hit a consecutive peak three collections straight, but I was surprised by their rather low-key presentation this season. Not that it’s sub-par, it’s actually quite warm. The line went from club-kid mania to daytime warrior, there is a strong nature reference. And though the colours are richer, the print is more subtle, and, once again, this is another example of transitioning from short to long. I’d like to think this collection is a tease of what is to come.

Under circumstances like this, all you can do is observe.

LFW 2011: Paul Costelloe

In British, designer, RTW on February 18, 2011 at 3:43 pm

via Getty

Shoot! I’m late! I’ve already missed one of my favourite Canadian expats (Jean-Pierre Braganza, in case you didn’t know) and it’s literally a couple of minutes until the next collection. Luckily, I have a good sense of time (Toronto is 5 hours behind London) and that means I’ve still got ample time to see the rest of the shows today. And boy, there are some amazing ones.

To kick things off – as early as 9AM – Paul Costelloe, a well-known feashion designer was in full `60s mode. Greens, brocade and multicoloured sheen were hot items, as were plaids – in almost every hue. Hmm, I’m not quite about of the prints as this point, I mean, they’ve been played to death. But I do like the bright emerald green, it wasn’t the ‘colour’ of money, but something more tranquil (who ever said money could bring peace anyway!).

Musing: Chanel

In culture, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW on June 7, 2010 at 12:51 am

Chanel – what I chic name. Then again, I’m attracted to all things chic. The way the name rolls off the tongue is like an ice cube melting in your mouth – the water drizzling down your chin. I’ve noticed, since I’ve been reading archives, Canadian magazines are in love with Chanel. Whether it’s fragrance, cruise collections or runway collections, they’re always front and center of this coveted french atelier.

Admittedly, I’m also a hardcore Chanel fan. Though I’m not sure if it’s more about the man behind the brand than the brand itself. Could it be that Canadian magazine Editors saturate the brand to be closer to him? I mean, Monsieur Karl Lagerfeld is a character all himself. With his starched-high collars, sleek black shades and leather motorcycle gloves emblem, he is the epitome of quintessential chic.

Since falling in love with Goth culture, I’ve noticed the dark underpinnings in his Chanel collections (considering Fendi and his namesake are more commercially appealing). I’m addicted to victorian-ruffled blouses, the monochromatic black scale palette (of course), jabots, admirals, Jacquard prints, brocade – all of it. And the younger Chanel, the ready-to-wear Chanel, exemplifies that gothic element for me. She’s what I aspire to be; mysterious, confident and forward. Obviously not all of it, but it peaks it’s pretty head; a shirt here, pant there, even a tweak in it’s traditional tweed jacket.

I’ve made an official claim that I’ll be sitting front and centre at the fashion world’s most sought-after collections, starting this year. And Chanel is not, by no means, exempt from this promise. I better get busy, I have a lot of work to do.

Swathed in black fabric, the way I like it.

The man of my dreams? Not quite, but he’ll do for now.

One to Watch: Jean-Pierre Braganza

In British, Canadian, designer, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, London, One to Watch, Rouse, RTW, Trend, Trend Report on April 23, 2010 at 6:14 pm

Jean-Pierre Braganza is not a newbie. He’s been designing since 2002, but I’m hoping to see a burst of mainstream recognition going foward. This British-Canadian Central Saint Martins graduate worked as a designer for Roland Mouret before being selected by Karl Lagerfeld for the Protégé Project, then debuted his eponymous collection in 2004. He creates both men’s and womenswear, and there’s a slew of celebrity fans including Kings of Leon, Estelle and Cheryl Cole.

Jean-Pierre shines when he nourishes his talent for psychadelic prints. I do however, feel he should leave the modernism to Jil Sander and concentrate on his gift for knits and draping. Maybe he’s still trying to find his comfort zone. But if he cultivates what he’s best at, he’s bound to flourish.

LFW 2010: Meadham Kirchhoff

In Collection, designer, dress, London, RTW, UK on March 1, 2010 at 2:25 am

I’ve been inexcusably absent from my blog. I can’t pinpoint the exact reason, not like I’ve been on vacation or anything. Could be a bout of searching… for inspiration. But I knew I had to get back on this so here I am.

I was in Toronto during London’s inspiring fashion week mash-up, but unless it pertained to my favorites, quite frankly, it didn’t really matter. But there was something missing this year, I’m not sure what designers are going through, but the animation they wove into their previous collections are missing.

I was shocked with the design-duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. It’s not that the collection was bad, but it reminded me of Matthew Williamson‘s worldly concepts. It’s not a bad thing, not at all. They’ve still got the gothic edge, but this time it’s incorporated with florals and I just don’t feel this was their best. Then again, maybe that’s okay because we all have bad days.

The thing with this collection is it’s a fall back. When Erdem, and Matthew Williamson does florals and feminine drapes there’s an undeniable fierceness to it. And it’s disappointing because I know Meadham Kirchoff can do so much better.

I hope my guys bring it back next time around, though. You know what I mean.

Musing: Henrik Vibskov ss 2010 womenswear

In Collection, designer, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, In the Know, RTW, Trend on January 28, 2010 at 4:52 pm

When Henrik Vibskov’s Maja Brix works her magic for the womenswear division, I’ve got to say – I’m practically drooling. It’s a shame because I don’t feel it’s getting the accolades it truly deserves. I’ve looked far and wide for the womenswear spring/summer 2010 lookbook but man, thanks to the Berlin-based Agentur V, I was able to peep some greatness from one of the coolest brands I’ve come across so far.  

This season doesn’t stray too far from the usual loose draping and colour contour concepts– something Henrik’s known for. And while I’m not really a fan of shoulder pads or harem pants, when Maja does it, it’s got an authentic vibe that makes it fun. I mean, the impression I get is they’re having fun with it anyway, which is what makes the brand a fav to begin with.

The problem with stagnancy though, is if the designs are consistent, it gets boring. Or, if they’re trying too hard to “grow” they kinda end up  taking from other designers and loosing distinction. I find Eastern European designers more interesting – a lot harder to find mind you – but not as superficial as their western counterparts. And I hope that as Henrik’s womenswear division blossoms, it becomes a leader to a younger generation of fashion mavens. In other words, building a distinction between itself and an H&M  rip off.


Musing: Michael Angel

In designer, dress, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW on January 26, 2010 at 5:09 pm

When I look at Australian-born, New York-based fashion designer Michael Angel’s collection, I can’t help but see the uncanny similarities between him and Mary Katrantzou. Obviously not every living detail, but the overall concept seems to derive from the core of  similar mindsets.
Michael Angel’s power – when not playing with trompe l’oeil – is in how he contrasts fiery digital print with monochrome, minimalist designs. It’s hard out there right now, no doubt. But with a coming soon stockist (according to his website), yet constant mentions in all the last fashion magazines, when can I expect to walk into a fashion store and see some stock?

We all know that digital print is having an explosive moment in the fashion world, but can it be over played? One has to wonder. While Ms. Katrantzou’s the ‘it princess’, Angel’s been chugging along; he’s got a stacked press section on his site, and he’s even launched an e-online shop. I still don’t – for some reason – feel that he’s really got the true recognition he deserves. But I digress.
Lets see what’ll happen.

Trend Report: Protruding Hips

In Collection, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW, Shopping, Trend, Trend Report on January 22, 2010 at 10:54 pm

If there’s any trend worth paying attention to for 2010, it’s the rise of protruding hips. Ideal for lanky, androgynous types, a mini-dress with accentuated hips figments an hour-glass shape, drawing attention to pelvic thrusts guaranteed to reel men in like fish bait. And as you know, wide hips represent child-bearing abilities. Why else would Shakira profess that the ‘Hips Don’t Lie’?

Central Saint Martins graduate Georgia Hardinge diligently embellishes the hips for her spring/summer 2010 collection. For this I’m sure she’ll be well loved by girls  dying to add some plump to the ‘stickness.’  But beware: if you’re already hippie, a la Beyoncé, then you might want steer clear of this look; you’ll end up looking like a sci-fi Gwar groupie – not cute.

I Heart Amapô

In designer, Fashion, Good Look, In the Know, One to Watch, RTW on January 22, 2010 at 6:20 pm

I was browsing relentlessly for Rio De Janeiro Fashion Week images and low and behold, I found something better. Courtesy of Lilian Pacce and noted through Hint Mag, I was astounded by the punk rock fashion funk brand Amapô that made a round at São Paulo Fashion Week F/W 2010. The unisex clothing line by Carolina Gold and Pitty Taliani launched in 2004 and has become a staple for crazy edgy, avant-garde concepts.

From what I understand, you can only get Amapô through their collaborations with Surface2Air in Brazil. They do have a website, though it’s been in development for a while now.

I Heart Osklen

In Collection, designer, Fabric, Fashion, Good Look, RTW, style, Trend, Wish List on January 21, 2010 at 1:05 am

I’m inspired by Osklen’s seemingly effortless boho grub collections. And take chic out the equation – that’s such a lame adjective.  Admittedly, I’m envious of more fortunate women who have the luxury of sporting the ‘fashion bum’ look without shopping ‘bum’ prices. But until that day comes, the second-hand route has made its way comfortably into my lifestyle, which adds a bit of compromise to how fresh some of my staples appear at times.

The aesthetics behind Osklen is a raggedy-ann concept with a polished finish. You can wear a complete outfit that’s easily mistaken for a thrift-find at first glance, but closer inspection reveals soft leathers, organic cottons and intricate drapes. I would love to wear a $2500 outfit constructed to look like its been lying around in the closet for a couple of years, if not longer. And I’m noticing that Latin Americans seem to be the predecessors of this type of fashion statement.

Who knows, maybe I’m living on the wrong side of the planet. As much as I love high fashion, I’m also a major fan of comfort, and that’s what Osklen has represented since its 1982 inception. “All my work is about duality. I juxtapose symbolic, textural, conceptual, and visual opposites,” creative director Oskar Metsavaht recently told Lets not complicate things now,Oskar. Simply put; Osklen is an extremely comfortable  collection of loosely draped cuts  done with meticulious attention to detail.