Musing: BRPYV

When it comes to fashion, for me, it’s not just about the clothes, but the colourful characters apart of it. I wouldn’t strive to be in fashion had it not been for Diana Vreeland’s authorized, and unauthorized biographies. Or her work during her tenure at Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Truth be told, if it were based on the strength of fashion alone, I probably wouldn’t really be in it. And I say this because I know has ruthless the fashion world can be.

In contrast to the Anna Wintours and Sarah Mowers of the world, there are the ones that make life – not just fashion – worth living. And finally, thanks to the rise of the Internet, these people are finally becoming forces to be reckoned with.

Anna Wintour has been called the most powerful woman in fashion. So, let’s call Anna Dello Russo its MVP. She has been in fashion for over 20 years, yet, it was not until around 2008 or so, that she came center stage. Never mind Ms. Russo’s 4,000 pairs of shoes, or the apartment she has strictly for her wardrobe. Ms. Russo is a performance artist. Her and fashion are one in the same. Through her inspiration, it is okay to have a passion for fashion in the literal sense. It’s not about impulse buying, it’s about adoring beautiful things, and the escape it can bring. The runway can be like a dream, and to own an item off the runway is but a dream come true.

Ms. Russo is here to fill the void of the late Ms. Blow and all the other people we have lost over the years.

It was a humid day in New York City, and I was having lunch on a patio with a good friend of mine, but I can’t quite remember where. We lamented about our careers, shared ideas, fed off each other, and out of the blue, my friend yelled out “I love you Ms. Yaeger!” I turned around, and this caricature with bright orange hair and long skirt turned around and waved. She was the original Ms. Lynn Yaeger – the fashion reporter with a witty sense of humour. Unfortunately, I didn’t know her as the head fashion journalist at the Village Voice, but I certain feed off her articles in Vogue, T Magazine, and the New York Times. You know, both her and Ms. Russo are quirky, and both take their clothing very seriously -they just have different style.

If I lived in New York City – or London – I’d feel comfortable exploring that whimsical side of my own style. And I say that because cities like Toronto don’t always get it.

According to an article in the Guardian, when it came to trying to pin down Ms. Anna Piaggi’s status in the fashion world, the journalist asked “how did a classically educated girl from a quiet, bookish family become one of fashion’s most outrageous iconoclasts?” Well, because she didn’t want to follow the tradition of her family, of course. The mad hatter who always has something in her hand to match is a fashion force toujour. Her signature blue hair and eye shadow are just thin strokes on such a vast and complex canvas. So much so, that the Victoria and Albert Museum held an exhibition in her honour.

Ms. Piaggi plays by her rules. And for that the fashion world has nothing but respect for her character, both inside, and out.

When I started reading Tatler back in 2007, I had no idea it was a high society British magazine. I only read it after learning Fashion Teleivision, that Isabella Blow was its fashion director. And who was she? A quirky, whimsical character whose over-the-top persona was enough to turn anyone onto the publication That’s all. And since her tragic passing in 2007, admittedly, I have not really read the publication since. She was known as the woman who nurtured careers. For she “found” Philip Treacy and the late, magnificent Alexander McQueen.

Ms. Blow’s life, despite her fame, was tragic. But she paved the way for finding strength in your individual style.

Ms. Diana Vreeland was a polished dresser, but her personality was a colourful as the red sea. And yes, she loved the colour red. She was an unconventional thinker, and unbelievable story teller. And because of her ideas, had a knack for creating something grad out of absolutely nothing. Whether at Vogue or the MET, she was a curator of ideas. Ms. Vreeland turned fashion dreams into reality.

You didn’t understand Ms. Vreeland, you conceptualized her.

Icon: Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh once said he bought the whole i-D archive for 2 pence an issue. That’s impressive. And it is this iconic magazine that has set the foundation for Mr. Pugh as the renowned fashion designer he is this very moment.

To understand fashion, is to know that there’s nothing surprising about Mr. Pugh’s success. I first came about this man back in 2007, while watching an episode of Fashion Television. Pugh would go on to shape my view of fashion – despite that I’ve been into fashion since the womb. But by taking to his work, I came to embrace a deeper side to what was the unknown.

Pugh is one of a very few fashion designers to amalgamate Goth and Punk culture. His line is exquisitely dramatic. Then, at the whims of his talent, he turned his name into a sellable brand.

Recently, Mr. Pugh was at the lavish menswear fair Pitti Uomo in Milan for his Italian debut. But oh, it was not a traditional runway. It was, as Ms. Menkes puts it, a “magical film, cast like a fashion fresco on the ceiling of a historic building and generating a rare fashion emotion.” However, let us acknowledge that his fashion film career has been groomed by the likes of Nick Knight, founder of the ever-innovative fashion site SHOWstudio.

In retrospect, Mr. Pugh has, naturally, come a long way. From the rusty, patchy work of his debut London collection to that of his glitzy New York ones, when it comes to a “pack” of designers, Pugh is but in a league of his own.

But what I appreciate about this new school of designers, is that they seem to have de-sexualize fashion.

And though you may question what there is to appreciate about that, well, the new school seem to be able to incorporate the naked form – push it to the limit – without it being explicitly suggestive. To them, fashion is art.

And now, the art is the clothes the consumer can buy, and not question the level of vulgarity.

Matter of fact, androgyny – in high fashion – is key. At least compared to the ultra-feminine florals of fast fashion chains.

And so it goes.

I do however, notice that he’s going through a transformation. And that’s okay – change is good. But I’m curious to see how sellable his brand becomes.

Tavi the front row hogging Style Rookie

My grandmother, apparently, is an avid junk collector – magazine junk. And to my chagrin, the curse has rubbed off on me. Because even if I’m down to my last tener, collecting glossies is my sport. It’s a fire hazard to my claustraphobic space, and moving is a pain (when I moved to the UK and back, I got rid of them by the hundreds), but when you’re that passionate, what else can you do?

 It’s not easy to forget; my time at my grandparents’ house spent lost in the basement. But it wasn’t a boogy-monster space, matter of fact, it was equipped with bedrooms, sliding glass doors and most importantly, a library-like room with  magazine filled satchels – loads of them. My grandmother was a Cosmopolitan reader, and Harper’s Bazaar I think – not quite sure. Actually, yes,  she was. Regardless, when I was trying to figure out what I wanted to do with my life, it was only when I decided on journalism that my habit started to make sense.

If  journalism is what you’ve dreamt about – particularly  the fashion segment – then it’s due to the same obsession. That along with the cinematic effect of Chanel No 5’s parfum commercials and of course, infamous shows like Fashion Television. It becomes this tight-fisted dream to one day be apart of an awe-inspiring culture, but things have changed.

Fashion blogging – and Twittering – is the future. And that’s just something us stubborn headed print lovers have to accept. Especially when the new world entails fashion’s current talk of the town: Tavi Gevinson. At just 13, she’s flying all over the world, sitting front row at the most prestigious couture shows and by GOD, writing for US Harper’s Bazaar, a magazine noted as one of the most acclaimed fashion bibles ever produced.  

I’ll be the first to admit at one point, Tavi stirred up a bit of the greened eyed  in me. And I too tried to hide it behind the guise of being a “real” Journalist. But when you really think about it, why shouldn’t she have her moment? And who’s to say what she’s doing isn’t just as authentic as the salaried magazine staffer? Look at it this way; Stephen Sprouse, the beloved genius behind LV’s graffiti inspired bags only remembered as a name, and nothing else. Gia Carangi, the most acclaimed to grace the catwalks in Milan and Paris, died Aids stricken and indigent on a hospital bed somewhere in Philadelphia. Not that it has to be that dramatic but you get the point. To say victimize yourself using Tavi’s success is a bit … young.  And if you’re a true HB reader who’s familiar with their Paris Hilton cover tendencies, I don’t think Tavi’s arrangement should be as a surprise. Is it really that serious?

Everyone – including the fashion blogger, has the same admiration for fashion world as the burgeoning – or established – fashion journalist. Just because you happened to go to school for it, or are making a regular living through this “official” title really doesn’t make you more deserving of anything. No one said the world is fair. But that’s what makes it so interesting.

I Heart Gareth Pugh, London, UK

I don’t own any pieces yet by UK-designer Gareth Pugh yet, but I promise you, not only will I have up-the-minute releases, but I’ll be sitting front row at all his fashion shows.

If there’s one designer I’d wear everyday, Mr. Pugh is in my top three list. I was introduced to his collection years ago via Canada’s Fashion Television, followed by the pages of i-D magazine; I was immediately smitten. I don’t just want raven on about how wonderful he is, but the reason it makes perfect sense for me is because his collection is very much reflective of my personality.

Pugh’s line is dramatically fashionable and very historic. When you look at his line, you can see victorian era emblems, and as I mentioned in my previous post about Rad Hourani, gothic references are done with meticulous precision.

You don’t have to be brave to wear Gareth Pugh’s line, you have to have taste.