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Posts Tagged ‘Erdem’

Burgeoning icon: Christopher Kane

In Fashion on January 14, 2011 at 12:47 am


A few years ago, while flipping threw British Vogue, the first thing I noticed was Christopher Kane’s sex appeal. And I’m not talking about his line. Christopher Kane, in my eyes, is exceptionally attractive. And it was only then that I became interested in learning more about his creations. The most obvious thing I realized: no collection is the same. Or, there’s no real distinction. Gareth Pugh has a trademark (Goth), Mark Fast (skin-tight knit), as does Erdem (floral, feminine print). Even design duo Meadham Kirchhoff show some consistency with their post-punk flair. But Mr. Kane (with no website, or form of accessible social media) is hard to pin. Just when I thought I liked his Goth-inspired confections of leather and crushed velvet, he then presents a collection of plexi and silk.

I had assumed he was heading the dramatic route, but then he unleashes a woman’s fun-loving side with breezy party dresses. And it was no wonder that Donatella Versace made him the creative director for Versace‘s baby sister, Versus.

Not that I was scratching my head with wonder, but I did not quite get it. And it was also around the time that he teamed up with Topshop to produce some boisterous gorilla print items. It was fascinating. But just as I’d started to get the hang of him, he turns around and presents a collection of plaid, almost peasant looking dresses.

Admittedly, I really though, and still think, hated this collection. Despite the continuous praise it got.
Ah, but he is young (born in `82 – the same year as me). So finding his voice in this saturated world is a must. And it was back to the miracles of leather. But this time, with a touch of whimsy.

This is my boy. But then again, this is what speaks to me. And thankfully, his Spring 2011 collection didn’t stray too far from the shed. And I like.

I appreciate that he’s coming to terms with a woman’s sexiness. It – through his construction – is maturing, and it can be many things. And I have come to appreciate that he is one of the more versatile designers in the cult of rising stars out right now.

He’s had a notorious 2010: his angry gorilla graphic prints were everywhere.

And his intergalactic star-prints were so omnipotent, even British Vogue dedicated their December issue to “stars.”

But case in point: because Mr. Kane is sexy, he therefore, knows what is sexy. And all of his collections, no matter which direction they took, all leads back to that one thing.

What is modern?

In Fashion on July 26, 2010 at 6:08 pm

In January of 1984, American Vogue made a tribute to modernity. Sally Ride was the first woman to head into space, the Olympics presented more opportunities for women and the runways liberated our bodies with men’s clothing. Hair was also significantly shorter. Athletes and models were praised for being womanly rather than emaciated. As with the clothes, the ideals of ‘men’s’ attire meant we preferred a looser, more serious wardrobe to that of the glitz and sex from the `70s.

Giorgio Armani made jackets in masculine cuts, while Donna Karan and Calvin Klein capitalized on minimalism.  Grey jersey dresses and wide-leg trousers meant we were tired of the fuss. Could this have been a much-needed women’s revolution?

Fast forward to 2010. Giorgio has launched Armani Privé, a sparkling collection of evening dresses and gowns, and Calvin Klein, while still true to minimalism, is severely feminine. Floral was ubiquitous by the likes of Dolce & Gabbana and Erdem. Viktor & Rolf bathed their collection in Tulle and Michael Kors laced his runway with furs. Models are now a size 0 or smaller. Hair is longer, braided and tossed to the side, or, free flowing and playful. If there is a hint of womanly, it’s in the form of the sultry Lara Stone, who, despite being a buxom blond, possesses the face of an innocent Lolita. The closest thing to grown-up on the runway is a dominatrix sashaying in leather as seen in Hermès. Then there’s the complete morbidity of Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh. No matter which way you look at it, fashion appears to be going through puberty. It’s taken ten steps back.

Michelle Obama is a cultural step forward being a woman of colour. But she is essentially a traditionalist: her physique is powerful, but she revels in the frills of pretty. And our heroes of today, hard as it is to believe, are girls from the flimsy world of reality TV – it’s no wonder fashion is in such a state.

If fashion is influenced by current events, it’s surely stuck in a rut. There’s a need for that modern-essence that gave it such clear direction back in 1984.

I Heart Rick Owens

In designer, Fashion, Fashion Heat, Good Look, I heart on May 21, 2010 at 10:17 pm

The American-born clothing connoisseur Rick Owens is one of the few designers to thrust goth-inspired fashion into the limelight. Using minimalist silhouettes and sharp cuts as his trademark, Owens got his start in 2002 when he debuted his ready-to-wear collections before the top editors in the busy. He’s been in the  business since `94, but what made him a star was the fact that his collection was reminiscent of Marc Jacob’s `95 grunge break-through. Careless and defiant against the  ultra-feminine and flashy trend  at the time. He’s cultivated his love for the dark side since his days as an Art student in California. But when he moved to Paris with Michele Lamy in tow, he was able to delve deeper into the realms of sexuality and S&M creating a classic, avant-garde collection.

Women turn to him for that no-nonsense, attitude fuelled concept whether heading to the boardroom or the disco. Owens’ designs are authoritative, dark and empowered, so if you’re a fan of Erdem’s luminous floral dresses, he  may not be for you.

LFW 2010: Meadham Kirchhoff

In Collection, designer, dress, London, RTW, UK on March 1, 2010 at 2:25 am

I’ve been inexcusably absent from my blog. I can’t pinpoint the exact reason, not like I’ve been on vacation or anything. Could be a bout of searching… for inspiration. But I knew I had to get back on this so here I am.

I was in Toronto during London’s inspiring fashion week mash-up, but unless it pertained to my favorites, quite frankly, it didn’t really matter. But there was something missing this year, I’m not sure what designers are going through, but the animation they wove into their previous collections are missing.

I was shocked with the design-duo Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff. It’s not that the collection was bad, but it reminded me of Matthew Williamson‘s worldly concepts. It’s not a bad thing, not at all. They’ve still got the gothic edge, but this time it’s incorporated with florals and I just don’t feel this was their best. Then again, maybe that’s okay because we all have bad days.

The thing with this collection is it’s a fall back. When Erdem, and Matthew Williamson does florals and feminine drapes there’s an undeniable fierceness to it. And it’s disappointing because I know Meadham Kirchoff can do so much better.

I hope my guys bring it back next time around, though. You know what I mean.

In the Know: Hermione de Paula

In designer, Fashion, In the Know, London, News, RTW on December 15, 2009 at 6:13 pm

I have a genuine love for new designers. But as I’m scrutinizing an image of Hermione de Paula, I can’t tell whether her blank stare is because she knows she’s privileged enough to get a break or because she’s jaded by all the bull-crap she’s gone through.

A cute girl with a cute fashion line and a cute little dog to match. This Central St. Martins graduate has got experience to boot; she’s been at Galliano, Giles, Alexander McQueen and Christian Dior Couture. She’s a favorite amongst the “fash” pack at British Vogue online and she’s the recipient of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award for autumn/winter 2010/2011. She’s got her first standalone catwalk show this upcoming London Fashion Week and she’s got a spring/summer 2010 collection at Browns Focus.

All the excitement galore means she’s got the stamina, she’s a hardworking mama-jammer, but I’m not quite fond of her s/s 2010 collection. Let’s not hate; her previous collections are great, but this collection seems to be boggled down by flora print, tie-dyes or something. Don’t get me wrong, she’s got some seriously hot pieces in there, and when she keeps her concepts to a minimum it’s bang on. But maybe I’m just not fond of floral prints. But then again, I beg to differ because I’m a fan of Erdem.

In The Know: British Fashion Council Awards Announce Shortlist

In designer, Fashion, In the Know, News on November 27, 2009 at 1:16 pm

The nominees are as follows:

Burberry, Mulberry and Pringle of Scotland nominated for the Designer Brand award.

Graeme Fidler for Aquascutum, Kim Jones for Dunhill, and Todd Lynn nominated for Menswear Designer.

Christopher Kane, Erdem, and Jonathan Saunders nominated for the BFC British Collection of the Year.

Emma Hill for Mulberry, Katie Hillier, and Nicholas Kirkwood nominated for the Accessory Designer.

Mark Fast, Meadham Kirchhoff, and Peter Pilotto nominated for Emerging Talent Award for Ready-to-Wear,

Holly Fulton, Camilla Stovgaard, Jessica McCormack, and Maria Francesca Pepe are nominated for the Emerging Talent Award for Accessories.

Models Georgia May Jagger, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Daisy Lowe are nominated for Model of the Year.

 I’m quite excited to hear about this, especially the emerging designers category as they were on my blog as ones-to-watch.  My fingers are crossed for Meadham Kirchhoff, they’re in the top three of my favorite designers.

With the exception of Ms. Jagger – whom I love – I’m not crazy about the model selection. I wish they would have considered Jourdan Dunn but she’s probably on her way out of the business considering she’s pregnant.

I believe Mulberry deserves this. They pulled off a coup with their Apple collaboration.

I wonder how Holly feels about the accessories mention. While she got her break as accessories designer for Lanvin, she’s working really hard to build a womenswear atelier.

Well, with all that said, fingers crossed!

Fashion Heat: Lace

In Fashion Heat, Good Look, RTW, Trend on November 13, 2009 at 6:15 pm

When lace is primped and layered it does – without question, present an ultra-feminine semblance. But what happens when design houses like Tao embellish their industrial gothic collection with the white, flowy material? Or when  Valentino construct the fabric to create  genteel, mature pantsuits? There’s no one way to wear lace this season, and it’s a break away from the hard-edged and dark looks that cascaded the runway in 2009. It’s also a subtle but refreshing alternative to the shimmering disco sequins that has been the range amongst the fashion obsessed.

It’s wise to play with the idea of a lace top, dress, or a jacket this season. You’ll be dazzled by the softness it will add to wardrobe.

 

In the Know: Cutler And Gross x Erdem

In Fashion, In the Know, News on November 5, 2009 at 4:33 pm

Cutler and Cross x Erdem

Knightsbridge, UK-based eyewear specialists Cutler and Gross (meaning they specialize in what’s cool for the eyes) have teamed up with the designer we all love this season Erdem. The release will be for spring/summer 2010 and marks the first collaboration between both design leaders. According the release on their website the glasses are available in “black, black lace, tortoise, a neutral stone, and Erdem’s customized designed Kyoto print, an intensely coloured abstract floral print for the new season.”

Stay tuned for more info…

I Heart Erdem

In Canadian, colour, designer, dress, Fabric, Fashion, I heart, London on October 29, 2009 at 10:28 pm

His real name is Erdem Moralioglu but his collection is known simply as Erdem. He’s a Canadian-born, London-based Fashion Designer known for exploded floral prints on Victorian-style dresses. He’s also one of the few to capitalize off of the fact that Canada has definitely got talent – though we tend to go quite un-noticed in the mainstream world. Either that, or once we reach a certain peak, we tend to leave our Canadian roots at the border replacing it with a more internationally recognized  migration status.

But Erdem has been one to watch since 2005. And thanks to his immaculate eye for colour and grandeur, he’ll be one to keep an eye on for a long time to come.