Safra

Posts Tagged ‘christopher kane’

Musing: Paolo Roldan

In Canadian, Fashion, Men, model, style on June 5, 2011 at 6:08 pm


There’s a difference between fixation and fascination. Doing what I do, and my naturally investigative nature, I have been fortunate to meet people that have contributed to my experiences in one way or another. Good and bad. I have met people from YouTube , Facebook, MySpace, or simply walked into a room realising I had to know THAT person for whatever reason. My opportunistic instinct would kick in and my mind floods with ideas. It’s like a rush. And I transform from a meek figure on the sidelines to a Journalist with a purpose. In this case, with Paolo Roldan a Canadian model, it was a gradual progression.

I befriended another male model many moons ago named Ali. I was a volunteer at a fundraiser for M-A-C called Fashion Cares. As Ali walked by my friend and I, the top half of his body painted in glitter, my friend made a flirtatious gesture. He was sweet about it, and hung out with us for the rest of the night. Ali, who was from Pakistan, resided in Denmark. He was trying the Toronto fashion scene out and didn’t have much friends. But he was an Adonis: smooth toffee coloured skin, and full heart-shaped lips. He seemed somewhat precocious and a bit naive. I kept in touch with Ali, hung out a few times. A first impression would have you believing Ali was cocky, but in actuality, he was one of the sweetest people anyone could know.

I came home one day and checked my voicemail. Ali was moving back to Denmark. He thanked me for ‘everything I did for him’ which really wasn’t much. I never heard from, or saw him again, but sometimes I wonder how he is doing.


When I met Paolo, I felt got the same feeling I had with Ali. A lot of the time, you would expect an egotistical attitude from models. Particularly men. I’m sure Paolo has his moments, but I am not the giddy type. And I had my eye on Paolo. I had seen him twice before. But I had no idea who he was until someone told me. I didn’t pay much attention to it until I came across a profile on him in a publication. I used him once before. But he reappeared in my life in the knick of time. There was something I needed to accomplish before I moved back to the UK and Paolo was the missing link. I needed him. I had to act fast.

After having a proper conversation with him, I was fascinated by the things I automatically assumed he would know but didn’t, things I learned from him, and human perceptions. I always knew my niche within the industry, but this experience confirmed it. I have made Paolo my un-official muse though he’s not aware of it.


I do not know anything about Paolo. I don’t I want to know him either. He has served his purpose as someone who brought me closer to a brand, Givenchy, I hold very close to me. During our interview, my head was in the clouds by the fact that there I was, a few days before permanently leaving the country, with this person who creates fantasies for a brand I magnify. He was my subject of a story for a leading post-punk magazine I dreamed of writing for called i-D. When things like this happen, it has a profound effect on your reality.


Now, in London, during the Central Saint Martins graduate show, I stole a quick minute with another fashion designer I spoke about endlessly for another dream magazine, Christopher Kane. Then, I walked right up to the honorable Hilary Alexander and introduced myself. I have chatted up with Giles Deacon, fashion maven of a generation. I can’t begin to imagine what else is in store. Sometimes certain things happen, like my moment with Paolo, that are precursors for what things may come.

Shout out to Paolo Azarraga for providing the images.

See more of Paolo Roldan on my TUMBLR.

Wet (fashion) dreams

In Fashion on May 16, 2011 at 5:59 pm

My official list of favourite designers. You are given permission to cut off my tongue if I ever say otherwise:

c.neeon
via sleek

Henrik Vibskov
via Henrik Vibskov’s blog

Dries Van Noten
via the fashionalists

Raf Simons
via fashionising

Jil Sander
via Marouge Style

Meadham Kirchoff
via Crystal Migraine

Ann Demeulemeester
via trendland

Christopher Kane
via the must + it

Gareth Pugh
via Newslicious

Rick Owens
via Glamour Goddess

Céline
via Kenya’s Style

Haider Ackermann
via trend forum

Kris Van Assche
via Homme Times

and, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy
via

Fashion Windows

Canadian mentions:

Denis Gagnon

via Magnifique

Greta Constantine

via Auntie Fashion

John Hillifer via Gian Lucianglesi

LFW Fall 2011: Christopher Kane

In British, designer, Fashion, Fashion Heat on February 21, 2011 at 6:13 pm


via Getty

Must take note: I’ve talked about Christopher Kane many-a-times before, but I didn’t expect my premonitions to come to this. Throughout the London collections, women have been constricted with stiff skirts and buried in oversized fabrics. I also noticed the overexposure of limbs but there wasn’t enough sexy. Kane on the other hand stood firm. There were breasts, and lots of sheer, but it was so exquisite, and oozing with glamour. I almost had tears in my eyes.


Leather playsuit via Browns Fashion

Toronto fashion out: London, UK fashion in

In Fashion, Fashion Heat, In the Know on February 4, 2011 at 10:54 pm

Despite the emotional roller coaster I experienced while living in London, I couldn’t help but be enamoured by its thriving fashion energy. It is the land of excess –  in a lot of ways – but it’s also an open platform to explore your style identity. Every street corner, every strip hangs on a cultural limb- and that includes fashion. So it is no surprise that  all my favourite fashion magazines – and designers – with the exception of France, are British.

Today, I came across an article on British Vogue announcing a new designer collaboration with the beloved UK-concept brand Topshop. The lucky craftsman happens to be David Koma – a designer I have profiled  on this blog:


David Koma for Topshop via Susie Bubble

and a favourite by the likes of Beyoncé and Girls Aloud front woman Cheryl Cole. I didn’t get to read the article in its entirety, but today, while having lunch, I came upon a piece in i-D by Sarah Mower, an acclaimed fashion journalist and Ambassador for Emerging Talent for the British Fashion Council. I’ve not finished the article yet, but it was an elaboration of the speech she made during the spring/summer 2011 NEWGEN awards late last year.

The article came after a 12-page layout of models all wear young, fresh designers.  The pages highlighted pull quotes from buyers and the like within London’s high-profile fashion world. But what caught me was when Ms. Mower said  the industry in London is known for its keen ability to “share and help one another.”

It may seem like a contradictory to provide a negative review on the film “Dressed,” but the problem that I have with the film is that it’s a director’s bandwagon attempt to cash in on a trend that has already come to pass. Not only that, it doesn’t help the hundreds, if not thousands of young hopefuls who need help furthering their fashion careers.

This is, by far, not the first time Topshop has collaborated with new designers. There are a stream of them:

Christopher Kane (three times)

via Frillr

Mary Katrantzou

Meadham Kirchhoff

Mark Fast

Jonathan Saunders

via fashionologie

Kate Moss for GOD’s sake

And a slew of others lesser known ones.

*All other images courtesy of British Vogue

A lot of times, it seems as though every city under the sun supports new talent except  Toronto. Mind you, we do have the Toronto Fashion Incubator, the Fashion Design Council of Canada (if you have thousands of dollars and should be “Toronto”), and a lot of local local publications show their support. We’ve made an attempt at Project  Runway, it’s true. But it’s not enough.  Not when Canada’s freshest talent, such as the aforementioned Mark Fast, Erdem Moralioglu, Jean-Pierre Braganza, Calla Haynes and Thomas Tait choose to cultivate and carry on their careers in cities that much more expensive than be here. Our department stores, on the other hand ‘showcase’ young designers once they’ve received accolades elsewhere, and seem up for collaborations with even other fashion stores, before taking up  homegrown talent.

Do I digress? No. For I too seem to find it much easier to get on in London, despite its faults, than in Toronto. But maybe it is not Toronto’s fault. It’s simply underdeveloped on the fashion front. And, as it turns out, the problem extends well beyond fashion. Canada, writ-large, is an underdeveloped country. And, as it turns out, this city is going down the gravy train. So, as it seems, there’s no where else to go, if you want to ‘make it’, but…  out.

Burgeoning icon: Christopher Kane

In Fashion on January 14, 2011 at 12:47 am


A few years ago, while flipping threw British Vogue, the first thing I noticed was Christopher Kane’s sex appeal. And I’m not talking about his line. Christopher Kane, in my eyes, is exceptionally attractive. And it was only then that I became interested in learning more about his creations. The most obvious thing I realized: no collection is the same. Or, there’s no real distinction. Gareth Pugh has a trademark (Goth), Mark Fast (skin-tight knit), as does Erdem (floral, feminine print). Even design duo Meadham Kirchhoff show some consistency with their post-punk flair. But Mr. Kane (with no website, or form of accessible social media) is hard to pin. Just when I thought I liked his Goth-inspired confections of leather and crushed velvet, he then presents a collection of plexi and silk.

I had assumed he was heading the dramatic route, but then he unleashes a woman’s fun-loving side with breezy party dresses. And it was no wonder that Donatella Versace made him the creative director for Versace‘s baby sister, Versus.

Not that I was scratching my head with wonder, but I did not quite get it. And it was also around the time that he teamed up with Topshop to produce some boisterous gorilla print items. It was fascinating. But just as I’d started to get the hang of him, he turns around and presents a collection of plaid, almost peasant looking dresses.

Admittedly, I really though, and still think, hated this collection. Despite the continuous praise it got.
Ah, but he is young (born in `82 – the same year as me). So finding his voice in this saturated world is a must. And it was back to the miracles of leather. But this time, with a touch of whimsy.

This is my boy. But then again, this is what speaks to me. And thankfully, his Spring 2011 collection didn’t stray too far from the shed. And I like.

I appreciate that he’s coming to terms with a woman’s sexiness. It – through his construction – is maturing, and it can be many things. And I have come to appreciate that he is one of the more versatile designers in the cult of rising stars out right now.

He’s had a notorious 2010: his angry gorilla graphic prints were everywhere.

And his intergalactic star-prints were so omnipotent, even British Vogue dedicated their December issue to “stars.”

But case in point: because Mr. Kane is sexy, he therefore, knows what is sexy. And all of his collections, no matter which direction they took, all leads back to that one thing.

In The Know: British Fashion Council Awards Announce Shortlist

In designer, Fashion, In the Know, News on November 27, 2009 at 1:16 pm

The nominees are as follows:

Burberry, Mulberry and Pringle of Scotland nominated for the Designer Brand award.

Graeme Fidler for Aquascutum, Kim Jones for Dunhill, and Todd Lynn nominated for Menswear Designer.

Christopher Kane, Erdem, and Jonathan Saunders nominated for the BFC British Collection of the Year.

Emma Hill for Mulberry, Katie Hillier, and Nicholas Kirkwood nominated for the Accessory Designer.

Mark Fast, Meadham Kirchhoff, and Peter Pilotto nominated for Emerging Talent Award for Ready-to-Wear,

Holly Fulton, Camilla Stovgaard, Jessica McCormack, and Maria Francesca Pepe are nominated for the Emerging Talent Award for Accessories.

Models Georgia May Jagger, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Daisy Lowe are nominated for Model of the Year.

 I’m quite excited to hear about this, especially the emerging designers category as they were on my blog as ones-to-watch.  My fingers are crossed for Meadham Kirchhoff, they’re in the top three of my favorite designers.

With the exception of Ms. Jagger – whom I love – I’m not crazy about the model selection. I wish they would have considered Jourdan Dunn but she’s probably on her way out of the business considering she’s pregnant.

I believe Mulberry deserves this. They pulled off a coup with their Apple collaboration.

I wonder how Holly feels about the accessories mention. While she got her break as accessories designer for Lanvin, she’s working really hard to build a womenswear atelier.

Well, with all that said, fingers crossed!

Good Look – Rihanna

In Fashion, Good Look on November 2, 2009 at 10:50 pm

In less than five years, Rihanna has gone from a fresh-faced, teeny-bopper to a bold, hyper-sexed, 20+ million album selling vixen.

Now, I’m loving the new R&B Chick-meets-Dominatrix ‘get-up’, but I also feel that somewhere along the way, something got lost. It’s not easy going from woman-child to full blown maven via the whole world, and I do wish the transition would have been a bit smoother. Maybe then her look wouldn’t have been so angst-driven. Even if shes been hardened by the hard knocks (literally, thanks to that ex-dud Chris Brown) of life, I do miss when Rihanna still had that glow in her eyes. And I believe she could have done the rocker black girl with a bit more pizzazz.

I’m assuming that this look (pictured below)was an MTV appearance or so, around her fourth album release Good Girl Gone Bad . I feel  this look was a bit of a Baby Phat meets H&M – which is not a bad thing, but could have used a bit more edge. I do like that she has that innocence, and with a bit of tweaking this look would have been bang on.

Get the Look
Rihanna

The Jacket – This Midnight Silk Biker Jacket by Christopher Kane. 1,539 (CAD). Available at Net-A-Porter.
Christopher Kane

The Top – This Black Leather Bustier by Maurie & Eve. 148 (GBP). Available at Bunny Hug.

Maurie & Eve

The Pant – These black satin low rise five pocket jeans by Cheap Monday. 23.49 (GBP). Available at Hug Bunny.
Cheap Monday

The Shoe – These leopard print ankle booties by Christian Louboutin. 798 (EURO). Available at My Theresa.
Christian Louboutin

The Accessories

As follows:

The Necklace – This Gold Pleated Chain Necklace with oxidised Silver Jumprings. 233 (GBP).

Bex Rox
The Bracelets – This chain bracelet with cord detail. 115 (GBP).Bex RoxThis chain and cord bracelet. 40 (GBP).
Bex Rox
All by Bex Rox and available at Brown Fashions.

The Earrings – These crystal hoops Kenneth Jay Lane. 249 (EURO). Available at My Theresa.
Kenneth Jay Lane
The Clutch – This Montelparo Clutch. $38 (CAD). Available at Aldo.Aldo Clutch